It’s safe to assume that most are familiar with organic farming, but many have yet to meet its more holistic, unconventional sibling: Biodynamic farming.
So, what exactly is this seemingly 'mystical' practice, and how does it affect the wines?
From the Ground Up
In principle, biodynamic farming is a holistic approach to stewardship of the land and everything that surrounds it. These practices begin in the vineyard, where the core tasks revolve around maintaining soil health. Essentially, whatever is removed from the soil during the process of grape growing must be put back in without the use of artificial pesticides, herbicides and fungicides- most of which are common in standard vineyard management practices.
Instead, there are nine different preparations that biodynamic farmers can use to add nutrients to their soil. Firstly, and possibly the best-known, are spray preparations derived from three different materials that are buried in a cow's horn over the winter. These are: cow manure, quartz crystal and field horsetail plants. After being dug up, these are sprayed on different parts of the plant to encourage deep root growth, strengthen plants and prevent fungal diseases, respectively. Secondly, they utilise compost preparations made from flowers and plant matter (also buried in the earth) to add specific nutrients to the soil and aid in the decomposition of larger compost piles. These six plants are: Yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, oak bark, dandelion and valerian.
If more ‘help’ is needed for the vines, then copper and sulphur sprays are allowed under the certification schemes, albeit in very small quantities.
Phases of the Moon
Another well-known aspect of biodynamic farming is its focus on the phases of the moon. While this is not a mandatory requirement of biodynamic farming, it’s a practise that many choose to abide by. The lunar calendar assigns different days to different parts of the plant, in conjunction with whichever zodiac constellation the moon is travelling through:
- Root days (earth signs) are regarded as the best days to focus on soils and roots.
- Leaf days (water signs) usually mean good days for canopy growth and vitality.
- Flower days (air signs) are the best time for aromatics- i.e. the perfect days for tasting!
- Fruit days (fire signs) are also great days for tasting and, importantly, harvesting.
As well as by constellations, the moon’s waxing and waning cycle is used as a guide. For example, the waxing moon draws things upwards, so indicates time for planting and harvesting and the waning moon moves things downwards, signifying the best time for root development and fertilising.
Does this mean the wines are made differently?
Biodynamic wines are often, by proxy of their makers’ ethos, made in a lower-intervention way than their highly commercialised counterparts. In such wineries, limits are set by Demeter (the largest international regulating body for BDA certification) against additives that can be used in the wines, such as sulphur dioxide. Additionally to this, processing must be as low-intervention as possible, with restrictions around other additives that may aid fermentation, or significantly change the flavour profile of the wine.
Aside from expressly prohibited processes, however, there are clear preferences for the use of native yeasts and spontaneous fermentation, the implementation of less mechanical intervention and the use of natural fermentation and ageing vessels such as wood, steel and clay.
What is the result?
It’s likely that you may have enjoyed a glass of biodynamic wine in the past, without even realising it! As versatile in style as ‘standard’ wines, it’s difficult to place all wines produced in this way into one category. However, the care and attention taken in producing these bottles, additional to a strong sense of place, creates some truly memorable, delicious wines.
Biodynamic producers in the Cellar Door Shop include:
- Domaine Peter Sichel, Cucugnan, SW France
- Christophe Mittnacht, Alsace, France
- De Fermo, Abruzzo, Italy
- Gut Oggau, Burgenland, Austria
- Domaine de La Grange Tiphaine, Loire Valley, France
Leave a comment